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I love to read about, collect, and use vintage needlework tools and textiles. Heirloom sewing, embroidery, knitting, quilting, tatting, crochet, and recreating vintage fashions are some of my favorite techniques. When I pick up a needle, the endorphins start to flow!

Sunday, March 4, 2012

First Official Assignment for Group 29

It is the CORSET COVER from the January 21, 1912 issue of La Mode Illustree--the issue with the gown trimmed with skunk fur on the cover. I am so excited to get started! 
Once again I am planning to make the garment using the pattern pieces exactly as they come, to see how they go together. I'm not yet confident about my ability to alter the pattern to fit me, but eventually I WILL make one for myself

I carefully studied the large line drawing that came with my pattern .pdf, and all of the trim appears to be Swiss embroideries rather than the delicate French laces I had assumed from the small thumbnail I had first seen and admired on the VPLL Blog.

 I  want to recreate this garment as closely as possible to the original, just for the educational value.   Actually stitching the garment should be quite straightforward; I have a lot of experience working with lace and embroideries and don't anticipate any problems. My plan is to once again use only materials already on hand rather than buying new.  (I'm guarding my money for when I make a garment that will be for my actual wear rather than a toile.)

So, what fabric shall I use?  Definitely embroideries for the trim. The use of embroideries rather than lace suggests a  practical and utilitarian garment to me. Something reasonably sturdy.
line pique
So, instead of using batiste, lawn, or voile, I have chosen a fine line pique in white. Dimity would also be nice.

The strips of trim on the bodice aren't very long, and I have a variety of embroideries to choose from. I found an insertion with openwork wheels to give a lacy effect, and there's just enough of a beading with embroidered flowers to fit across the top of the bodice. Edging is a little trickier, but I found a piece long enough to trim both the armscyes and the neckline.  (All  from a "grab bag" from Martha Pullen Company--not Swiss, but pretty.) Serendipity!

I will hand roll the armscyes and the neckline, and whip the edging trim to entredeaux to join it to the garment. (I will need to purchase more entredeaux, because I want to use nice stuff, not the coarse domestic entredeaux used on the princess slip. Buttons are 3/8" mother-of-pearl shank buttons with an incised line design

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