New Approach to Stitching

I’ve decided to try what is a new-to-me, but an authentic period approach to using the pattern.  Rather than cutting the pattern out with the seam allowances Janyce added to the original pieces, I removed the seam allowances, and traced the seam lines on my fashion fabric. I cut out each pieces about 1/2 “ outside of the traced seam lines, giving back a seam allowance.  But, instead of matching cut edges, I match and hand baste each seam line. This gives me somewhat ragged looking cut edge, but a very accurate sewing line for final stitching. For more information about this technique see this article by Kim McDaniel Nish

The seam is totally smooth, and very unobtrusive

Matching the seam line is easier to do than I imagined, and I like the results. My finished seams are perfectly smooth, with no puckering whatsoever. Matching the seam line instead of the cut edges reduces unequal pulling and stretching of the two garment pieces. The smoothness may also be influenced by hand basting, which doesn’t pull the way pins sometimes do.

Since this is a muslin, I am sewing each seam as a plain seam.  If it were a full blown lace version, I would have to decide which seams to stitch plain, and which to sew as French or felled seams.  Seams that are under lace will be eventually be cut away, and would be best stitched plain, while other seams should be more finished.